Why a Winter Pilgrimage?

In December 2023, we walked the Golden Valley Pilgrimage route in Herefordshire, UK.  When we were planning this walk, I made several inquiries on TripAdvisor about accommodations, and travel arrangements, which elicited comments such as the following:

“We are going to walk in the English countryside the first 10 days of December,..."

I must ask, are you acquainted with the short daylight hours, the weather, the underfoot conditions, and the general state of the countryside? I live on a farm and I would not choose to take a holiday walking in the countryside in December. Each to their own.

and

Walking don’t forget you’ll probably need good waterproof boots, gaiters or waterproof over trousers & a good breathable coat. As well as plenty of layers underneath. A pair of poles would also be a good idea.

Paths can become very muddy, slippery & wet. It really can be quite miserable.

Good luck I hope it works out for you & you are well prepared.

Certainly, these concerns are valid ones.  This was our second winter pilgrimage, having walked St. Hilda’s Way near Whitby, in December several years ago.

Why would we be such nutters to go walking for a second time in December?

There are several advantages to a December walk.  For one, it’s the holiday season, so cities and towns are decorated for Christmas and there is festive air everywhere.  Churches are also in the Advent season, not only with decorations, but also scheduling special services, musical events and concerts.  Also, since it is near the end of the year, it is a good time for reflection and renewal as the winter solstice and New Years approach.  Since most people travel close to the Christmas holiday itself, the first 2 weeks of December usually have less travel in compensation, so it’s easier to get bookings if one plans ahead.

Worries about the weather are valid, but bring to mind the maxim, “There is no bad weather, only bad gear”.  Over the years we have discovered what works for us and have a packing list that covers most contingencies.

In December, the days are shorter, so we limit the mileage expectation to 8 to 12 miles per day, due to limited daylight.  We also organized both walks to stay in a central location with transport to and from each days segment.  This allows stashing of excess gear and limits having to pack and unpack daily.  We can adjust what we carry and wear based on the day’s weather report.  We also carry only very light backpacks.  These have only a small dry bag of spare clothing (in case of accidental soaking), some food and hot liquids, and extra rain or foul weather gear (if not being worn when we set out each day).

The shorter daily distance also helps adjust for bad footing.  On our first winter’s pilgrimage, the ground was mostly frozen, which made for good walking over soggy moors, but we had to slow down in areas with slippery footing or ice.  In Herefordshire, we had flooding rains, so the ground was very muddy on large parts of the route.  Walking poles are a must in winter.

But as to how this can possibly be enjoyable, takes a bit more explanation.  The churches and local sights could be enjoyed any time of year.  Winter takes a bit of a different mindset.

First, there is no rule that says a pilgrimage should be easy.  I would say that part of the spiritual growth of a pilgrim’s walk involves overcoming some hardships.  In winter, there will inevitably be rainy or cold or snowy (or all three!) days that will test determination and make one wonder about their sanity. Harsh weather should foster humility when facing the grandeur of the atmosphere.  Spiritual principles of Hope and Belief are necessary.  One must develop a rhythm and resolve to keep moving forward, even in the worst of conditions, in the hope that things will improve; and believe in the promise of relief.  If nothing else, you may find a hot meal and shower at the end of the days walking.

In winter also, there are few people on the route.  It is easier to find solitude. Even if walking with a partner, you can space out a bit and find time to be “solitary together”, without need for talking or social interaction, creating a rest for your brain.

If one walks long enough, the steady beat of walking and the need to focus on footing, crossing stiles, finding routes, having to constantly orient to the immediate environment will bring your mental focus into the present moment.  Thoughts and worries about the wider world at some point will drop away and you will find yourself wholly in the here and now.  If you are lucky you will look up and around and realize that you are a small organism making slow progress across the great and intricate and ancient Creation on the face of the Earth.  You will suddenly shift perspective.

In winter this seems easier to me.  The air is colder and clean and sharp, awakening the senses. People write about “the silence of winter”, but our walks have been full of natural sounds.  There is constant wind or breeze, the sounds of your feet walking over the wet earth or along the stony path, splashes through puddles.  The sky is constantly changing, with the light diffuse and highly angled, the sun changing aspect and appearing and disappearing rapidly.  The English countryside is surprisingly green in December. Although many trees are bare, there are evergreens and holly with brilliant red berries in the woods and hedgerows.  Without leaves, airy views are wider and the countryside more visible.  There are small birds, “little brown jobs” chittering and flitting about.  In some villages, there are still tenacious flowers in the hanging baskets and window boxes.

You may cross into a pasture with a lone, bare but centuries-old English oak standing sentinel over a flock of sheep. You may visit a churchyard where a gravestone has the message for you, reminding you that “Life is Uncertain”. You will encounter something unanticipated that will surprise and delight you, if you only look:  peacocks in a farmyard, handknit Holy Family in the small

Nativity of a country church, alpacas curious about your walking by, a Santa Train, standing steaming at a rural station.

Many of these things may be found on a summer’s walk, but in winter, the cold, the wind, the short day seem to make them more precious, more intense, more unexpected.  Walk long enough and you will experience weather shifts; clear skies leading to rain or snow, and back again.  And if you are lucky, perhaps a rainbow.

Walk your winter pilgrimage with your eyes and mind and heart open, enjoying being in each moment, and when you arrive at the Cathedral, you will wish you could just keep on going, walking in the winter world.